Toward
A Basic Strategy For
Low Limit No Limit Hold Em:
Playing the Blinds Pre-Flop
BY:
Ashley Adams
Contact at: (Asha34@aol.com)
Author of Winning 7-Card Stud
SMALL
BLIND: EVERYONE ELSE HAS FOLDED
This
happens much less, I find, in these low
limit no limit games than it happens in
fixed limit or higher limit poker. Invariably
there is at least one person who has called
the big blind before the action gets to
you. Even more frequently there are two
or more callers. Even so, every once in
a while you will be left with only one
other player in the hand when it is your
turn to act.
Heads
up action like this will eventually be
based largely on your read of the player
you are against and your read of how they
read you. It is much less card specific
than playing against multiple opponents.
But when you start, before you have the
confidence in your reads that you'll eventually
acquire, you need to have some idea of
what to do in these situations. Here's
what I recommend as a simple basic strategy
for playing the small blind in this situation.
In general, raise with any holding that
is A-x, K-x, Q-7, J-9 or stronger. Make
it a serious raise of three times the
Big Blind or so. Call the Big Blind with
anything weaker for the extra $1.00. True,
in a limit game there are hands that don't
warrant a call. But in no limit, especially
against passive players who won't raise
when they're the big blind unless they
have a monster, you can afford to make
these calls because of the huge implied
odds you have if you actually do make
a monster with a perfect flop. Don't be
seduced into continuing this loose play
against a raise from the Big Blind or
if you face action on subsequent streets
and you haven't made your hand.
If the Big Blind re-raises me significantly
I will fold my hand unless I have a pair
of Queens or higher or Ace-King. I'll
reraise him by three times his raise if
I have Kings or Aces. If he puts me all
in or otherwise re-raises me significantly
after I have made this re-raise I will
fold my Kings and go all in with Aces.
It's not worth it to me, absent a good
read on my opponent, to play weaker hands
against what I will presume is a very
strong holding. This assumes relatively
equal and fairly large chip stacks - where
the cost of calling his own bet is three
times or more what I have already put
in the pot. Significant changes need to
be made in your strategy if your chip
stacks are relatively unequal or if you
are short or large stacked. But that will
come later.
On
the other hand, if he just raises me by
doubling my bet - making it another $6
or so, then I'll call with any pair and
with Ace-Queen as well. Again, this presumes
that I have not yet developed a read on
him, judging him to be a typical low limit
player. As my reads develop I can act
differently from this bland style of play.
SMALL
BLIND - Caller In Front
If
one or more players have called the Big
Blind before the action gets to me, but
there have been no raises then I will
raise the Big Blind or so with any pair,
with Ace King and Ace Queen. I have what
is very likely to be the best hand and
I want to limit the field to avoid some
random flop giving a random caller a miracle
hand. I will generally raise by the size
of the pot or so. The more callers, the
larger my raise. So if three players have
called the Big Blind then I'll raise by
$8 or so, making it $10 to go. If only
one player has called the big blind then
I'll make it $8 to go. Again, this raise
depends somewhat on what the general raise
at the table is. If players tend to make
it $10 or so when they raise then I want
my raise to be larger than that with a
few players in the hand. But absent something
clearly defined and without knowing the
particulars of a table, the numbers I'm
providing should get you in the ball park.
Call
the extra $1.00 with any holding because
of the huge implied odds if you hit a
monster on the flop. Just make sure you're
cautious if the you are raised by the
Big Blind (as explained in the prior section)
and on subsequent streets.
SMALL
BLIND - Raiser In Front
You're
going to play this the same way as you
would play in late position. If it's a
significant raise - say to $8.00 or more
- you will fold with everything except
your premium hands. And you'll make a
significant raise with Kings or Aces.
So, for example, if the raiser makes it
$8 you'll make it $25 or so with Kings
or Aces.
If
it's only a small raise of double the
big blind however, you're going to call
with any pair and with your big cards
like Ace-King, Ace Queen and King Queen.
You'll raise with your Kings and Aces
as well making it roughly three or four
times what the raiser made it. He makes
it $5; you make it $15 or $20.
BIG
BLIND - CALLERS
You
will be at a positional disadvantage against
all of your opponents save the small blind.
Generally speaking, their calls indicate
not much of anything - since players at
this level tend to overvalue their hands
and raise with poor holdings. They tend
to call, often, with any two cards. Small
raises from you will not tend to knock
them out of the pot once they have called.
Large raises may - though some of these
guys will tenaciously fall in love with
their two cards almost regardless of how
weak they seem to be.
As
a beginning strategy (that you will modify
later as you develop experience and an
ability to read your opponents) I have
found that passive play works fine. Most
of the time I will check if there hasn't
been a raise. I will generally not push
the small advantages I may have over the
field - nor do I try any clever plays
to create an image for the other players.
There are a few exceptions.
I
will make a value raise to $10 or so if
I have a big pair - Jacks or higher -
wanting to make them pay if they have
a weak Ace or a lower pair. I don't want
to let in for free someone with A-4 or
a pair of 8s who might move ahead of me
for free if I check from the big blind.
I don't make this move with my big Aces
because I want my opponents to hit their
Ace when I hit mine. So I save the raising
option only for pairs Jack or higher when
I'm in the Big Blind.
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